About two-thirds of our body is water and you are constantly reminded of how important drinking is for your well-being. So if your moisturizer has a high water content that can only be good, right? Are you already standing? Then please sit down, because now comes a surprise: is not it.
Water-based creams need a lot of auxiliaries
Water never comes alone. Creams with H2O need a lot of auxiliary substances. A look at the INCI list of most toiletries reveals that ingredient # 1 is water. Top, you think, is healthy. You test the cream: a nice consistency, as soon as you apply it gives a fresh kick and quickly retracts it does.
Feel-good factor vs. skin Health
While cream was still creamed with creams in grandma’s time, the trend today is for light textures. Sounds progressive, but it’s just a step towards wellness, not skin health. This is not due to the water itself, but to the many side effects that cause the necessary additives. Below I introduce you to the most important ones:
1. Water needs preservatives
Water germinates within a few days, because microorganisms such as bacteria or fungi feel at home in it. Therefore, any cream containing water automatically contains preservatives.
Natural cosmetics companies usually use alcohol, as it has little allergenic potential and protects as a broadband preservative equal to a whole host of germs. However, it is not suitable for sensitive skin, because it irritates and dries it out.
Conventional products rely on a combination of preservatives for a wide variety of germs. That means even more substances that strain your skin. Some of them can cause allergies.
Only with emulsifiers from water and oil is a cream
Since oil and water do not mix, water-based creams need emulsifiers. They combine the two substances – in the crucible and on your skin. When fat and water have long been absorbed, the emulsifiers remain there. Add new water from the outside and combine it with the skin’s own fats.
There is a leaching effect in which your skin is deprived of an important part of its protective layer, namely the skin’s own fats, the so-called lipids. It is getting drier and more susceptible to bacteria and Co. Find out more in our article on Emulgatroen.
No creamy texture without consistency
There are also substances that provide the right texture. Think of your favorite jam. It consists of many watery fruits, which are mixed with a gelling agent, so that the jam does not remain liquid, but preserves its delicious consistency. Creams with H2O need similar stabilizers. So even more, what your skin has to cope with.
Water requires substances that balance the PH value
The skin is surrounded by an acid mantle. Their pH is therefore in the acidic range 4.5 to 5.75. Water has a pH of 7 and other ingredients have their own values again. So as not to disturb the acid mantle, the PH value of the care must be adapted to that of the skin. The more ingredients, the more complex the PH adjustment.
Conclusion: Free from water means free of many additives
With our most popular product, the FIVE Shea Cream, we do without water. That means a whole series of ingredients less that strain your skin. But where does the moisture come from? Very simple, out of the pipe. Moisten your face and take care of it. So it feeds well and helps your skin to retain moisture for a long time.